#60: Montego Bay

In late October 2025, a Category 5 hurricane roared into the Caribbean with an intensity that had only been seen in the Atlantic Basin one other time in history.  The sustained 185 mph winds of Hurricane Melissa made it the strongest storm on record to ever hit Jamaica.  Damage to the island nation was catastrophic:  45 deaths, $8.8 billion in losses, and nearly half a million residents without power.

The United States government responded immediately by authorizing $37 million in initial emergency relief funds to the Caribbean and deploying multiple disaster responses teams.  FEMA’s National Urban Search and Rescue Response System sent task forces from California and Virginia.  U.S. Southern Command Joint Task Force Bravo provided humanitarian and disaster relief efforts.  The greater mission was coordinated by the U.S. Department of State and included the streamlining of efforts by government and private sector organizations. 

Since its independence from the United Kingdom in 1962, Jamaica has maintained diplomatic relations with its Western Hemisphere neighbor and most important trading partner, the United States of America.  Disaster relief in the wake of Hurricane Melissa was not even a question.  But now, more than seven months since landfall, a different form of assistance is needed:  travel.  Jamaica’s service sector, which primarily revolves around tourism, comprises more than 71 percent of its GDP.  While some damage remains, the storm itself is gone.  It is time for American tourists to return to Jamaica for sunshine and island vibes.  The remainder of this blog will hopefully provide motivation.

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Flights from the United States to Jamaica are provided by many common major airlines and serve the capital of Kingston via Norman Manley International Airport (KIN) as well as the vacation destination of Montego Bay (aka “Mobay”) through Sangster International Airport (MBJ).  The latter is most popular for tourism with direct flights available from the eastern and southern U.S. hubs.  Those flying specifically to the Ocho Rios area of Jamaica can potentially use Ian Fleming International Airport (OCJ) although commercial options are limited.  See the end of the blog for additional Jamaican air travel tips.

Montego Bay has a blend of traditional hotels and all-inclusive resorts, depending on the preference of the traveler.  Opinions on this matter are varied due to perceptions of safety as well as the influence of large resorts paying for positive online reviews that encourage prospective visitors to spend all their time and money at only one property.  For work, staying sequestered to a single resort is not an option.  Even on personal vacations there is an innate desire to experience foreign cultures and explore unfamiliar places beyond the hotel.

Recall from Blog #51: You Better Belize It that the homicide rate in Jamaica – and by extension, crime overall – is quite high.  Admittedly there are places in Jamaica that visitors shouldn’t go, but these aren’t the touristy regions.  Even in the permissive areas, visitors need to be selective about which businesses they walk into.  For example, we skipped the Bubbles Car Wash, Restaurant, and Grill.

But for the most part, visitors to Jamaica will enjoy virtually the same level of security and safety as they would at any other popular spot for tourism.  Travel wisely and remember there are plenty of more dangerous places in the United States.  Now, on to more important matters:  food!

The Pork Pit is on any Montego Bay list of authentic local joints serving classic Jamaican jerk barbecue.  The meat is grilled right in front of you plus the ocean can be seen from the outdoor seating.  The smells emanating from the grill are amazing and seem to attract the whole city, so go during off-hours to avoid the crowds.

For the less adventurous diner – or the homesick American sports fan – Usain Bolt’s Tracks & Records restaurant is lively and spacious.  Think of it as a Jamaican version of Buffalo Wild Wings.  Assorted bar fare with an island twist, an extensive Caribbean drink menu, and massive televisions on every wall showing all manner of international sporting events.  Fun fact, there is an immense fan base for American professional sports throughout the Caribbean. 

Another restaurant with a famous namesake can also be found along the main drag in Montego Bay.  Not only does Jimmy Buffett’s Margaritaville have excellent views of the ocean, but portions of the multi-story establishment extend over the water.  Prior to the renovation that was taking place during our trip, there was even a water slide from the restaurant into the bay below.  There are locally inspired items on the menu and, of course, souvenir cups available.

Jamaican jerk is delicious but we didn’t fly to the Caribbean just to eat.  Whether for work or for play, a trip to the islands isn’t complete without visiting the shore.  Without a doubt, the best beaches in Jamaica are far from the city centers of Kingston and Montego Bay.  Popular choices are Negril, Port Antonio, and Ocho Rios.  But if you’re limited to Mobay, Doctor’s Cave Beach will be more than sufficient.  It can get very busy due to a lack of other nearby options, but the fees for entry and umbrella/chair rentals help keep it clean and tolerable. 

The islands are renowned for their beautiful sunsets.  After a day at the beach, the trick is to get a table at a seaside restaurant before the crowds arrive for dinner.  We preferred Pier 1 on the Waterfront in Montego Bay.  It’s far enough from the big resorts to be quiet during dinner, but still close enough to be convenient.  The unobstructed views from the dock are unbeatable especially since the cruise port is just across the bay.

Being that Mobay is a cruise port, there are many opportunities for tourists to go shopping.  Personally, I try to avoid the expensive and overcrowded retail areas catering to cruise passengers.  The aggressive shopkeepers in Jamaica reinforced this frame of mind with their rude catcalling of pedestrians, as if such behavior would entice anyone into a store.  There is a lot of potential for cultural appropriation in overseas gift shops as well.  And plenty of pickpockets.  But, to each their own.

Approximately half an hour outside of Montego Bay in Jamaica’s Trelawny Parish is a destination that is somehow both more peaceful and adventurous than shopping:  the Martha Brae River.  Since 1970, visitors have floated down a winding three-mile stretch of river atop rudimentary bamboo rafts.  Guided through the mangrove forest by licensed captains, the 30-foot rafts provide over an hour of serenity along the calm waters named after a legendary witch whose spirit still watches over the land.  Similar rafts were once used during the plantation era to transport sugar and bananas to the port of nearby Falmouth for export.  Today, the river provides a peaceful – if not romantic – and beautiful glimpse into history.  The only interruptions come during the high season when vendors line a few parts of either shore to sell drinks, fruit, and knickknacks.

Leaving warm beaches behind for a return to reality is tough.  Caribbean airports are notoriously reputed to be slow and melancholy.  If flying to or from Montego Bay during the high season or otherwise busy time, the airport can quickly become overwhelmed.  The VIP services of Club Mobay are widely considered by seasoned travelers as being the key to reducing the stress of transiting in and out of Sangster Airport.  In addition to lounges with complimentary refreshments, Club Mobay facilitates expedited security screening and customs processing.  The personalized greeting and step-by-step concierge service is much welcomed after a long flight.  An uncommon yet pleasant accommodation offered by Club Mobay is an arrival lounge which is convenient for travelers using group ground transportation (i.e. to Ocho Rios) and have downtime between their arrival to Jamaica and the departure of their resort shuttle.

There is so much more to see and do in Jamaica than what this blog entailed.  Consider a cruise or short flight to the island nation to support its economy.  Even as the country recovers from Hurricane Melissa, a few days on the beach would be a much-needed break from the chaos seen elsewhere in the world.

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Anticipate blog delays during current geopolitical challenges.