#34: Pretzels and Beer

Continued from Blog #33: Munich Security Conference

Hallway reputation.  Personal brand.  Leadership shadow.  Regardless of the buzzwords we use to describe the way others think about us in the workplace, a bad reputation can be hard to shake.  The concept isn’t exclusive to humans, either.  Amsterdam banned the smoking of cannabis in public in an attempt to rid themselves of their stigma as being a pot smoker’s paradise.  Miami Beach “broke up” with spring break after parties turned to mayhem in years prior.  Even the former murder capital of the world, Medellin, successfully altered its image and became safer than the worst cities in the United States.  Yet some places, just like people, simply embrace themselves for who they are.  Whether it’s Germany’s official travel website referring to beer halls as part of Munich’s identity or National Geographic boldly stamping Munich as Germany’s beer capital, the city seems to be just fine with its thirsty visitors.  Fortunately, with a few weeks of carving out small bits of downtime during the Munich Security Conference, my coworkers and I were able to discover that the capital of Bavaria had a lot more to offer than just malted hops and barley.  But first, we had to get there.

Source: Dark Passport Photography

Fortunately for the adrenaline junkies flying into Munich, the airport is 20 miles from the city center along the infamous autobahn.  Contrary to popular belief, much of the autobahn actually does have variable speed limits especially in populated areas or along treacherous routes.  Some say it’s not a coincidence, however, that speed restrictions are lifted so close to the headquarters of BMW in Munich.  Unless otherwise indicated, Germany recommends a maximum speed of 130kph (81mph) on the autobahn.  But when you see the notorious white signs with five black diagonal lines, all bets are off. 

This sign means the previous speed limit of 80kph no longer applies, and all that remains is an advisory speed of 130kph.  In other words, seeing this sign is an indication to drive as fast as you safely can.  Source: Dark Passport Photography
The four black boxes on this autobahn sign are speed limit indicators.  They are blank because it is a zone of unrestricted speed.

Speaking of BMW, the headquarters and original manufacturing facility of the famed automaker is located in Munich.  Despite being repurposed and nearly destroyed during World War II (a fact often glossed over by Germans) the plant has remained active since 1922The headquarters building is much newer, having been completed from the top down (not the ground up!) in 1972 just in time for the Olympic Games.

At the base of the BMW Headquarters is the BMW Museum, a tourist attraction for gearheads and history buffs alike.  Source: Dark Passport Photography
Across the street from BMW Headquarters is the BMW Welt which is basically a gaudy indoor showroom with some museum qualities and a huge gift shop.  Pictured here is the exhibit on the “M” brand, BMW’s high performance racing division. Source: Dark Passport Photography

On the other side of the highway from BMW is the Olympiapark, the home of the 1972 Summer Olympics.  Unlike so many other Olympics venues, Munich continues to maintain and use most of their athletic facilities to this day. 

The best view of Olympiapark is from its own prominence, the 955-foot Olympiaturm tower.  Originally built as a television tower years before the Olympics, the tallest building in the city still attracts hundreds of thousands of visitors per year to its elevated restaurant and outdoor viewing deck.
Source: Dark Passport Photography
The Olympiastadion viewed from atop the Olympiaturm.  Considered the heart of the action in 1972, the Olympic Stadium with its unique canopy has also hosted the World Cup finals and felt the reverberating sounds of AC/DC and Elton John.  Source: Dark Passport Photography

Although not nearly as expansive but perhaps more intriguing is the view from the south tower of the Frauenkirche, Munich’s most famous landmark.

If you look closely from this 323-foot vantage point of the Church of Our Lady, you can see the Olympiaturm and BMW Headquarters.  Nevermind the 86 steps one must climb in a narrow spiral stairwell to reach the elevator to complete the journey. Source: Dark Passport Photography
Capturing the massive expanse of the interior of the cathedral by photograph is notoriously difficult due to its architecture.  The columns hide nearly any chance of seeing diagonally from one wall to the other.  Legend has it that even the Devil himself was tricked into believing the church has no windows.  As it turns out, the joke was on him because the stained glass windows are remarkable.
Source: Dark Passport Photography
Source: Dark Passport Photography

If you’re impressed with the condition of the interior of the cathedral, it is sadly due to not being totally original.  The historic building, like most of the city, was almost leveled by World War II bombing raids.  Even if the Germans didn’t have to rebuild so many of their structures in the wake of losing the war, it would remain a period of time they’d rather forget.  As such, almost no remnants of the conflict can be found in the city, with one minor exception being the Ludwig Maximilian University of Munich.

Known as Wunden der Erinnerung (Wounds of Memory), the scarring to the brick walls of the university is unnoticeable to the passersby and students waiting for the bus.
Source: Dark Passport Photography
An up-close view of the pockmarks from the war.  (The signs are unrelated to the memorial.) Source: Dark Passport Photography

Some of the most important and seemingly historic buildings in the city weren’t spared during the war and thus have been restored over the past eight decades.  The heart of Munich, known as the Marienplatz (Mary’s Square) is both figuratively and literally the city center.  On the north side of the square is the iconic Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall) which contains a glockenspiel that functions as a gigantic clock.

Neues Rathaus on Marienplatz. Source: Dark Passport Photography
The glockenspiel is the two-tiered oxidized green section of the tallest column at the same height as the rest of the building’s pitched roofline. Source: Dark Passport Photography

Due to its irrevocable status as a tourist attraction, the Marienplatz is also home to some of the best modern-day shopping in Munich.  My inner child couldn’t resist going into the German Lego store.  I was not disappointed.

Hilarious. Source: Dark Passport Photography
Lego pretzels.  Should’ve seen this coming. Source: Dark Passport Photography

Ah yes, the famous German pretzels.  Known in the local language as brezen, I was admittedly thrown off by how different they are from the American version.  For starters, our server at the world-renowned Hofbrauhaus insisted I order the pretzels from a woman roaming the beer hall in lederhosen that seemed two or three sizes too small.  I’m not entirely convinced this wasn’t simply a spectacle they impart on American tourists.  Once we finally received the twisted strands of dough, we were a little let down with the lack of flair.  The breze are served locally at room temperature with a dry outer crust and an inside that hovers between stale and soft.  Also, they come with nothing to dip them in.  Heaven forbid you ask for beer cheese or spicy mustard, the waiter will scream something in German that sounds awfully like “American” and walk away (they won’t return with the condiments, either).  So yeah, you’re just left with a plate of tepid bread.

A basket of brezen at Hofbrauhaus, the world’s most famous beer hall. Source: Dark Passport Photography

Of course, all good things must come to an end.  As you may have read in my precursor post to this one, we were all just about over the dismal Munich Security Conference anyway.  The ratio of security incidents to successful meetings was in the red and quite frankly it was time to throw in the towel and move on.  I was anxious to get back to the safety of New York City where the criminals roam free and the National Guard is on deployment in the subway.